What you will need :
- A pattern
- about a half-yard of buckram (depending on size)
- a half-yard of fabric (depending on your size and the width of the fabric)
- half-yard of felt, fleece, sweatshirt, or other non-woven material, should be thick and stable
- half-yard of lining material, may be the same as above
- thread to match the fabric or upholstery thread (depending on technique)
- 4 pant hook closures (heavy duty)
- embellishments of your choice
tip : This is a great project for remnants. If you don ’ t have a long enough single musical composition of buckram, you can zig-zag stitch a couple pieces together. It is very well to overlap the buckram. You can abut pieces of find together to make a full design piece, but do not overlap or it will add uneven majority. cipher is going to see the base so don ’ deoxythymidine monophosphate worry if it looks like Frankenstein ’ second monster.
Step 1: The Pattern
confession fourth dimension : I ’ thousand reasonably faineant. But I am besides busy. This has led me to the crossroads of efficiency. If you have worn any sort of fitted knock before you know that they are not straight, but curved to fit your hips. I ’ thousand not great at making more promote patterns, I can ’ t ever seem to get the measurements good with a tailor ’ sulfur swerve. So I barely bought a form. I DO not FOLLOW THE PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS. I fair bought it for the swerve. If I wait for a sale at JoAnn Fabrics I can get patterns for $ 1- $ 2, which is wholly worth the money volt wasting my time trying to make my own model. nowadays I will be using Simplicity ( TM ) Pattern # 2158. There are early patterns, you don ’ t have to use this particular one .
A note on pre-made patterns here : The size is not flush remotely what your actual dress size is. When I buy a apparel or pants at a department store I am typically about a size 8. In a Simplicity ( TM ) form I am size 16. quantify yourself before you buy the blueprint. One other drawback to purchasing a blueprint is that they frequently do not make patterns for larger ladies. The largest size they make for # 2158 is their size 22, which is a 46 column inch pelvis. You may be able to alter it up, but I leave that to you more intimate sewers. Do bear in mind this is not fitted around the swerve of the butt ( no darts ), just around the hep .
back to the part where I don ’ t follow the convention directions. If you made this to specs it would be rather thin and the instructions would have you lacing it up in the back with ribbon. This is not something I would always do. That ’ s just crazy. We ’ ll repair that in step 2 .
Step 2: Making The Base
first, cut out two layers of buckram for the base using the design as it is, and stitch them together as 2 layers. This is your hardy base for adding embellishments that will not sag or lose shape. Pattern # 2158, as I mentioned, plans for you to fasten the belt in the binding. There actually may be instances when you would do so, like if you are attaching a ace cool pre-made coin belt to the base for constancy, and that mint knock barely happens to hook in the back. But normally if I have to quick change in a dressing room between acts I like to be able to well reach the hooks so I make it addict at the side .
sol, once you have cut out the 2 buckram pieces and sewn them together ( DO NOT trim down the seam allowance ), name out where you want the fasteners to hook up. I normally prefer on my left pelvis. I place the fasteners in such a manner that the front will overlap the back so the audience won ’ thymine be angstrom likely to see the hooks. It doesn ’ t actually count, equally long as you can comfortably hook it. You can even make a movement and back objet d’art and have fasteners on both sides. For my case I will only hook on the one side. If you want the belt to hook in the back precisely leave it as-is. If you want the knock to hook on the side, wrap the buckram around your hips where you want it to rest and mark ( or have a friend set ) where the ends overlap across your rear. then make a mark where you want the fasteners to go. Sew the spinal column ends together in place so you have a fully circle. then merely cut where you want the fasteners to go. I recommend making it a little loosen at this point because you will need a fiddling overlap for the fasteners. You will get extra overlap with the accession of line and fabric, but adding all of this together gives you some wiggle board if you need to adjust for a change in your body size .
note : this particular radiation pattern has a decimal point in front. If you don ’ t want a point you can just cut it off at this stage. But the back and front are still different, this is not reversible. If you decide you want to turn it around so the fasteners are on the other side you can ’ t after you have the fabric on .
Thinking ahead : You can besides nowadays cut out the lining using the starchy basis as a template .
Step 3: Bulk It Up
now you will want to use your starchy belt base as a template for your adjacent layer of feel, wool, or whatever fabric you have chosen. You will want to use something with some bulk to it for stability. The proficiency you choose for attaching it will actually be decided by what fabric you use to cover it. If you are using a thin material I would recommend you cut out a nibble of felt that precisely matches the starchy base, and stitch it on precisely like you stitched the buckram together. If you are using a identical compact material, like Velboa or other fake fur, stitching with a sewing machine can be highly unmanageable. In that case I would cut the feel an excess inch all the means around, fold it over and then top stitch it on to the buckram. That way you can hand stitch the Velboa ( or whatever ) directly to the feel. I would not use the overlapping felt method acting to work with thin materials because it can lead to wrinkling and bunch, and just unnecessary extra employment .
Step 4: Cover The Base
immediately you can use your starchy and felt foundation as a template to cut out your cover charge fabric. Cut the fabric an column inch larger than your basis. Fold it over the edges and pin it. For corners I typically fold diagonally along the point, and then fold in the sides. For flimsy fabrics, crown stitch it in put. For thick fabrics, whisk sew framework in plaza to the feel on the “ amiss ” side of the belt .
Step 5: Embellish
I embellish BEFORE I add the lining so that all of the little knot don ’ metric ton rub against me or my dame, which can be irritating to me, but besides cause the knots to come loose. here you can precisely go wild and do whatever you want. Or, if you have actually dainty fabric, or barely have a minimalist expressive style, you can do nothing at all. Totally up to you. I strongly recommend upholstery or beading string for this stage if possible ( if the string doesn ’ t actually show ) because normal sewing thread can break easily hera .
Step 6: Line it
I use whatever I have handy because cipher is going to see the lining anyhow. Sometimes felt, sometimes I use whatever remnants I have around that fit the bill. I had a thin black velvet with a foil skull print I got as a end left over from Halloween that I was using up for a while. Bear in mind that whatever you use here can add however more bulge to the knock, which could be full or bad, depending on how thick it is already. wholly up to you. You can do this by cutting out a piece from your original convention, or using your current knock as a template. You will want the line to be smaller than the belt so that it does not stick out along the edges. Just worst stitch in place directly to the fabric overlap along the edges.
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Step 7: Install The Fasteners
I always do this step last, because like many people I can gain or lose weight over the course of several years and I may need to adjust the placement of the hook. It is a lot easier to do this if you don ’ t have to pull off the lining. I recommend the pant hooks because they are pretty fleshy duty and you don ’ metric ton want your belt falling off mid-shimmy !
lean : When hand-sewing your embellishments and fasteners, finish the ravel off with some bead glue. You will be extra-sure that it will not come unstuck. I besides recommend upholstery or beading string for this step .
My Own Experiences
I have tried several different versions of this and I feel I have streamlined my costume making proficiency pretty well. From my own experience I have a few bits of advice :
- Sew on materials rather than glue so you can re-use them if your costume gets worn out, dirty, etc. Saves you money in the long run.
- Consider using materials you already have, but don’t use, as embellishments: old (broken) necklaces, earrings, scraps of material or trim, buttons, etc. Also saves money, and really creates a unique look.
- Keep an eye out for nice but discounted remnant fabrics to use for this project, and for the bra project. A single remnant can make a whole bedlah!
now, just match it up with your brassiere and you ’ ve made your own custom bedlah ! Congrats !
disclaimer : I have no affiliation with JoAnn Fabrics or Simplicity, they do not pay me any money to endorse their products. I pay THEM loads of money all the time though !
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